This camera will take 8 photos across two 35mm frames in quick secession. I assume it’s original purpose was for analyzing your running gait or golf swing. There are several settings for photos from left to right or right to left and how much time there is between the photos.

It looks like my camera doesn’t work though. The camera looks nearly new, but the Ebay listing said that it was untested and sold as parts only. Which makes me suspicious that they did test it, and it didn’t work. That’s Ebay, but the camera was really cheap in any case.

I checked the battery voltage, and it seemed ok. I took the case off of the camera and nothing looked mechanically broken, shorting the power switch did not make the camera turn on. I’ll have to dig a bit deeper.

I haven’t take the shutter apart yet, but it looks like the whole camera is run off of a single 6 wire stepper motor. It looks like there’s a switch below and to the right of the stepper; I assume that gives the stepper some positional feedback on where the shutters are. I guess if the electronics are blown I could probably build something myself since it really only looks like I’d need a stepper driver, and a couple of switch inputs. I hope though that I can get it working without too much fiddling around.

Fuji Rensha Cardia disassembly / teardown:

1. Open the back door
2. Remove three screws from the left side film canister area
3. Remove two screws from the right side film take up area
4. Remove one screw on the bottom of the camera to the right
5. On the top of the camera flip the film rewind handle open, and remove one screw
6. Gently flex the camera case and slide it off

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Each of the four images is taken from a slightly different position creating a little bit of parallax between the images.

When the images are split apart and aligned you can create GIFs with some fun movement.

The camera has three aperture settings f/8, f/11, and f/19 and one shutter speed — 1/60th. I don’t really trust either of those numbers. At some point I’ll measure the shutter speed to make sure it’s not way off. I might also try and rig up something to see about the aperture, but that’s a lot harder.

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In a digital photograph the noise in an image is randomly distributed, so if you take two noisy photos, and combine them then the total noise in the resultant image is lower.

I shot 17 images for the sky at 30 seconds with 3200iso and for the foreground, 4 shots at 30 seconds at 16000iso.

Creating an average image for the sky is hard because the earth is rotating making the Milky Way appear to move. I used Nebulosity to align the Milky Way frames.

I did a similar noise removal for the foreground, but that’s much easier as it doesn’t move. The foreground and sky now exist in separate images. They need to be combined in Photoshop using a mask.

Finally the image needs to be un-distorted — I shot these photos with an 8mm fisheye which gives the world a weird fishbowl shape.

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I got back from a Casein Printing workshop a few weeks ago, and I’m gearing up to make casein prints at home. I’ve bought the two chemical components potassium dichromate and ammonium caseinate. The last big thing to do is build an exposure unit.

It looks like most home made exposure units use fluorescent tubes, but they’re kind of expensive and require holders and ballast. I found some UV LED Tape on Amazon which should work, and it’s low complexity to setup — cut the tape to length, apply to the board, and solder wires to the tape to complete the electrical connection. It took maybe 2 hours to apply the LED Tape and solder everything together

I’m not sure how tall the exposure unit box needs to be, to get good coverage and diffusion, so I’ll prop it up for testing and then build an appropriate box

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Here are a few pictures from the burn. The color pictures are all shot with my Canon 80d and a Tamron 24-70 f/2.8. The black and white images are all shot with my Kiev 60 and an Arsat 80mm f/2.8; I think I shot all the photos on pushed Ultrafine Xtreme 400.

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